Breguet

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Quick look review: Breguet Classique 5277

A couple of months ago I got a quick look at the new Classique 5277 in rose gold. My first impression was that it is a beautiful watch, and nothing has changed since then.

I have also finally gotten the chance to see and take some photographs of the 5277 in white gold, and I like it equally as much. 

One quality I appreciate about Breguet watches is the use of blued steel for the hands. With rose gold case, the blue enhances the warmth of the metal. In the instance of white gold, I find it offers a nice contrast to the silver of the dial, breaking up an otherwise monochromatic palate that one would find with a white gold watch with white gold hands (say with a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle or a Patek Philippe 5196, the most natural competitors to the Breguet 5277).

The 38 mm of the case wears large due to the slim high polished bezel, but it is well proportioned at only 8 mm thick.

There is much to adore with Breguet cases. I like the consistency across the entire collection, and the case makes a nice frame for the beautiful hand-finished guilloche dials.

Before looking at the movement in the photo below, please note the safety screw on the underside of the lug: This tiny screw locks the threaded lug screw into place, ensuring an extra layer of security. Please check for this screw before ever attempting a strap change on a Breguet watch (not all models have it). Failing to do so will inevitably lead to one making a mess of the lug screw and/ or the lugs.

The Breguet 515DR is large enough to allow the small second hand to be located far enough away from the center of the dial so that it feels well balanced.

As with many Breguet movements in current production, the 515DR incorporates a silicon balance spring, which beats at the standard 28,800 VPH. The balance is free-sprung.

The 96 hours of the power reserve comes from a new, patented steel alloy used in the springs of the mainspring barrels (without which the expected power reserve would be closer to 68 hours). Breguet calls it a ‘high energy barrel.”

One characteristic that I really enjoy in Breguet watches is the asymmetry often seen in the dials, especially those of pieces with complications (though the 5140, with small seconds offset to the right from the traditional 6 o’clock positioning, is simple). The placement of the power reserve between 1 and 2 adds interest to the dial without drawing undue attention. 

The 5277 is an outstanding dress watch, and a good value as well. Though it adds the power reserve complication to an otherwise simple movement, it still has a lower retail value than either the Vacheron Constantin 82172 or Patek Philippe 5196 mentioned above. It should be on the shortlist for anyone considering a luxury gold dress watch.

Bill

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