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Breguet showcases two significant complications

By: Bill (registered) Friday, October 19th, 2007 - Photo Nav: View All 7 photo(s)

Breguet showcased two significant complications this year; both were tourbillons, hardly surprising given the company's heritage. Despite offering the same complication, both watches could not be more different from each other. The first of the tourbillons is the monumental La Tradition Tourbillon.

The La Tradition Tourbillon with fusee chain - the tourbillon cage is probably the largest of any wristwatch

Last year Breguet showcased the ungainly Double Tourbillon, a 44mm wristwatch with two tourbillon escapements linked by a differential, with both mounted on a rotating plate. It was an ambitious watch, and no doubt it sold well amongst football club owners, but I thought it too flashy; it lacked the finesse and classicism that a Breguet should have.

This year Breguet got its act together and unveiled the La Tradition Tourbillon, a watchmaking marvel. Containing a constant force escapement driven by a fusee, this La Tradition grande complication is what Breguet should be about. There is nothing cutting edge in this watch, it uses old technology, but it is still a remarkable achievement.


The fusee chain around the barrel - each chain link is miniscule!

Apparently, the prototype shown at the fair was completed just the day before the fair began so there was little information available, but it was mentioned that the watch is based on two vintage Breguet pocket watches. Breguet certainly achieved its aim of creating the look and feel of a pocket watch, the La Tradition Tourbillon resembles a pocket watch with lugs attached. It is an imposing watch at 16 mm, a good deal of the thickness is due to the immense, domed crystal, just like those found on pocket watches.

This watch is certainly an appropriate monument to the resurgent house of Breguet, and is probably the first of many such supercomplications. I have said it before, Breguet is probably the most viable contender to challenge Patek Philippe for the crown; watches like the La Tradition Tourbillon go a long way in achieving that goal.

 

This watch is one of the rare few that have a boring display back but a knock out dial side.

Messidor was the tenth month of the French Republican Calendar, which was used for several years after the French Revolution. It was also the month in which Abraham-Louis Breguet was awarded his patent for the tourbillon escapement (June 26, 1801 according to the Gregorian calendar).

Since Breguet never fails to remind us of its glorious history, its other significant complication of 2007 is the slim and subtle Tourbillon Messidor, named in honour of A. L. Breguet and his patent. It is a mystery tourbillon of sorts, sporting a tourbillon cage mounted on sapphire discs, giving the impression that the tourbillon is floating. In my opinion, this is easily the most handsome conventional tourbillon in Breguet's line-up, and it will be available in white gold and rose gold.

 
 
In rose gold - this is one of the most beautiful watches of 2007. 


  The back of the rose gold model - bevelling on the bridges is superb

I appreciate the fact that Breguet has opted for a simple, brushed finished on the skeleton bridges. Many of the older Breguet skeleton tourbillons were decorated in a Baroque, floral pattern that was never very well done. In contrast, the finish on the Tourbillon Messidor is excellent.


 
I very much prefer the rich colour of the rose gold version, although this white gold model is hardly an ugly watch.

 

 

Photos and text by Su JiaXian (SJX)
© 2007 by Su JiaXian and PuristSPro.com  



great read, but the pictures are reversered

By: ei8htohms (registered) Saturday, October 20th, 2007

The Messidor photos are where the Tradition photos should be and vice versa.

Nice pics and read!

_john


Great report and stunning photos, SJX.

By: tony p (registered) Monday, October 29th, 2007

Some very interesting insights here. I disagree about the quality of execution in Breguet's engraved pieces - mostly I find them quite stunning, if a little too "rococo" for my tastes.

The overall design, skeletonising and finishing work on the Messidor remind me strongly of the JLC Reverso Platinum no. 2 Tourbillon Squelette from a couple of years ago. That remains one of my all-time "holy grail" pieces. Like that piece, this gorgeous new Breguet will remain forever on my list of "unattainables" (well, unless the world finally wakes up to my extraordinary, peerless genius, and starts remunerating me more fittingly); but in the meantime, my heart is gladdened that pieces like these simply exist.

Gotta say the La Tradition Tourbillon doesn't sing to me. I have the original La Tradition in YG, and that's a fabulously elegant, historically aware, horologically significant piece. The TT on the other hand, is massive, chunky, historically contradictory, and well...it just tries too hard. Just my two bobs' worth, of course, but I wanted to love this watch - and yet, when I saw it at Tempus (displayed, unfortunately for it, right next to the Messidor), I just couldn't like it.

Anyway, your photos really bring these pieces to life - and, in the case of the Tradition, nearly manage to make a silk purse out of....

I'd better stop there.

Cheers
Tony P


Great report and stunning photos, SJX.

By: tony p (registered) Monday, October 29th, 2007

Some very interesting insights here. I disagree about the quality of execution in Breguet's engraved pieces - mostly I find them quite stunning, if a little too "rococo" for my tastes.

The overall design, skeletonising and finishing work on the Messidor remind me strongly of the JLC Reverso Platinum no. 2 Tourbillon Squelette from a couple of years ago. That remains one of my all-time "holy grail" pieces. Like that piece, this gorgeous new Breguet will remain forever on my list of "unattainables" (well, unless the world finally wakes up to my extraordinary, peerless genius, and starts remunerating me more fittingly); but in the meantime, my heart is gladdened that pieces like these simply exist.

Gotta say the La Tradition Tourbillon doesn't sing to me. I have the original La Tradition in YG, and that's a fabulously elegant, historically aware, horologically significant piece. The TT on the other hand, is massive, chunky, historically contradictory, and well...it just tries too hard. Just my two bobs' worth, of course, but I wanted to love this watch - and yet, when I saw it at Tempus (displayed, unfortunately for it, right next to the Messidor), I just couldn't like it.

Anyway, your photos really bring these pieces to life - and, in the case of the Tradition, nearly manage to make a silk purse out of....

I'd better stop there.

Cheers
Tony P